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The Sevillians are great actors and put on an extraordinary performance at their annual Fería de Abril, a week-long party of drink, food and dance which takes place day and night in more than a thousand especially mounted tents. But above all it allows the men to parade on their fine horses and the women to dance in brilliantly coloured gypsy dresses.
The official fair grounds are called the “Real de la Feria”. This is an area covering 1.2 million square metres that is divided into three parts, one for parking, another for the amusement park and then a vast area set aside for the main attraction– the casetas. These are canvas tent pavillions that are set up every year in rows that make up the streets of the fairgrounds. Some of these belong to eminent local families, some to groups of friends, business owners, others to clubs, trade associations or political parties.
Inside the tents the drinks begin to flow and tapas are served from around 1:30 mid-day till early next morning. Each caseta is equipped with a full bar, small “kitchen” area and a sound system or live entertainment with the official Sevillana style of music the order of the day as everyone is set to dance “Sevillanas” all week long. This is the official genre of folk music in Seville. It is based on a set pattern upon which local artists fashion ever new themes..
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| Fun and festivity at the Seville fair |
Some men and virtually all women wear the traditional costume. For men – particularly those on horseback or driving carriages, this is the “traje corto” – or short suit consisting of fitted pants and a short cut jacket. It goes together with a wide-brimmed hat. Women on the other hand, turn out in an astonishing array of the latest styles of the traditional “traje de gitano”, literally “gypsy outfits” or flamenco dresses. Click here for the true story behind the dress code at the Seville Fair.
Most of the casetas are private and thus open only to members and their guests. If you’re lucky enough to make friends with someone in Seville who has a caseta, you could be lucky enough to receive a much coveted invite. However, there are also “open” casetas. The "caseta municipal" is run by the town hall, and is one of the largest and always open to everyone, but it can be completely full if a well known band or singer is on stage.
The sheer size of the April Fair’s spectacle is extraordinary, and the dancing with its intense and knowing sexuality, a revelation. Most infectious of all is the universal spontaneity of enjoyment. After wandering around drinking in the scenes that surround, you may wind up a part of it, drinking and dancing in one of the open casetas which welcome everyone on board.
From around midday until early evening, Sevilla society parades around the fairground in carriages or on horseback. An incredible extravaganza of display and voyeurism, this has subtle but distinct graduations of dress and style, catch it at least once. There are also bullfights on a daily basis which are generally considered the best of the season.
The feria usually starts on a Saturday and runs nine days to the following Sunday night. Actually, the feria officially starts at midnight on the Sunday night (but there will be much activity during the preceeding weekend).
We have calculated the following start dates, at 12:00 midnight on:
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28 April 2009
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12 April 2010
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